Saturday, 30 March 2019

Slovenia Part one - A hidden gem


A restaurant at Lake Bled, far too popular for us

How do normal people book a holiday?

1. Visit a travel agent,
2. Bring home some brochures
3. Browse various hotel complexes available
4. Select a nice 4-star all-inclusive hotel close to the beach with a kids’ club. 

How do we book a holiday?

1. Search Google for "Secret Destinations" or "Hidden Gems"
2. Check out the population density of all the destinations
3. Find the least popular months to visit said destinations
4. Look up the cost of living in the chosen location 
5. Review flights on Skyscanner to decide the cheapest days to travel
6. Procrastinate for a month or two in case a better option comes up. 
7. Revisit all sites before deciding
8. Find out the cost has increased due to our inability to make a decision.

 This is how we found ourselves booking a one-week holiday to Slovenia in 2018.

Slovenia

 Slovenia lies in the eastern Alps at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea. It borders Italy, Austria, Hungary, and Croatia and as such, shares a lot of their characteristics. It is most famous for the beautiful Lake Bled, in the Julian Alps but it was the less popular Lake Bohinj that caught our eye.

 Lake Bohinj is the largest permanent lake in Slovenia (apparently the others move about a bit) and is in the Bohinj valley of the Julian Alps.
 Mountains, lakes, valleys...it sounded like a place worth a visit.

 After scouring various websites and talking with a friend, who had visited the year before, we decided upon not one but two locations. The first half of our holiday would be spent in an apartment close to Lake Bohinj and for the second half; we would hire a tent at the Adrenaline Eco place campsite. We would forgo the campervan (see our Iceland trip) and instead, hire a car at the airport.

 Both locations were found and researched via Booking.com but booked directly after emailing the hosts and asking for discounts.

 The remaining months prior to the trip were spent researching more hidden gems and adding as many pins to our Google maps as physically possible.

 The week of the trip finally arrived, and the children were very excited to be going on their second flight this year. We had found EasyJet flights from London Stansted airport and paid a little more to travel during normal waking hours (something that is essential when traveling with children).


M with her kindle close at hand
Arrival

 After arriving at the airport, at midday, we faced a 2-hour delay. This meant our 7pm arrival time was put back to nearer 9pm and we would be driving in the dark. Luckily, after a last-minute change of plan, we had booked a night in a hotel 15mins from the airport, a godsend.

 We landed safely, picked up the hire car (a very pleasant Mercedes A class) and arrived at our hotel for around 10.30pm. By this time, we were all close to murdering one another; the children were tired and hungry, and we were all ready for bed.

Sleep........

......5am
Dong...Dong…what the?
Dong...Dong...Dong...Church bells, really?
Dong...Dong...Dong...will it ever stop?

(Okay it may not have been 5am but it felt like it and it went on for hours..ish)

The view from our hotel room
 It is a little-known fact that in Slovenian churches like to ensure their parishioners are awake bright and early to tend the fields and get ready for the day ahead.


 Tourists just have to follow suit.

 Coming soon, Slovenia Part 2: Lake Bled, Lake Bohinj and the Autotrain to Most na Soči.




Thursday, 21 March 2019

Wildcamping on a beach - A microadventure




 Back in 2016 I decided to do things a little differently, I’d returned from a music festival and realised I was turning middle aged. Things had to change.

 I needed something exciting in my life, something out of the ordinary, something just for me. But what? I started to consider the options: should I buy a sports car, get an earing or maybe have an affair. All of these sounded far too clichéd and the last one would be downright dangerous. No, I needed something else.

 It was whilst perusing the internet for adventure that I stumbled across Alastair Humphreys. Alastair is an author from England. He writes about his adventures exploring the world, but he is also very keen to push the idea of the microadventure; a short, local accessible adventure. Short, local, accessible I could do, and I wouldn’t even need to file for a divorce.

 I started to research the idea in more detail. A microadventure normally entails a hike of sorts, cooking and sleeping outdoors. These things had been a part of my life for years so maybe it was time I got back into it.

Time to get organised:
  •  What would I need?
  •  Where can I go?
  •  Who can I go with?

What would I need?
 After joining a few wild camping forums and reading through the various sources of information I came up with a list:

A tent or tarp shelter, a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, stove, pot, cup, cutlery, water bottle, headtorch, rucksack, compass, drybags and that was about it.

 As this was my first foray into the microadventure, I didn’t want to spend a fortune on kit.

After far too much research I went with the below:



All other items were purchased cheap from Amazon or second hand from Ebay.

A test pitch in the garden


Where can I go?
 This was a tricky one. With wild camping not strictly legal in England (its not illegal either) I had to find somewhere where I would be comfortable and wouldn’t be seen. Again, I resorted to the internet for inspiration and decided a beach camp would be the best option. Living in East Anglia there is not a large selection of mountains to choose from and deserted lakes, with amazing views, are few and far between. We do, however have Norfolk on our doorstep. A beach camp it would be.

Who can I go with?
 As this was the first camp and I wanted a bit of support, I suggested it to my family and friends:
“Who wants to come camp on a beach?” I asked
“Is there a playground, a shower room or pub?”
“Er, not quite”
“Is it legal”
“Er, not quite”
“No thanks!” was the general response

 C however, being 9 years old, was far more excited.

The plan was formed; we would set off on a Saturday morning have a day of adventure then camp on the beach before heading home on Sunday.

Canoe Tr on the Norfolk Broads


The big weekend
 I did some more research and found a company at Salhouse Broad who would hire canoes by the hour. We had done some canoeing before, so we were perfectly comfortable to go out alone. We spent the morning paddling up and down the river before heading to the pub for lunch.

We had the beach to ourselves


 The beach we had decided to camp on was a short drive away near Brancaster, it had been recommended by some friends I had met on a Facebook page Norfolk Microadventurers. This page is a localised group set up off the back of the Alastair Humphreys microadventure concept. There are groups all around the country (check them out!)

 We arrived at the beach at around 6pm and parked in the carpark, unfortunately the car could not be left here overnight so we would need a new spot. We checked out the beach, paddled in the sea and waited until dusk. The general rule for wild camping is arrive late and leave early and we didn’t want to upset anyone by pitching our tent in full view. Once we had found a flat area, we drove the car back to the local village, parked up and walked back to the beach.

Our pitch for the night


 By now most people had left and we had the beach pretty much to ourselves. This is an amazing feeling, being in such a beautiful spot as the sun is going down and knowing you do not have to leave. We pitched the tent as best we could (remember sand pegs next time!) and cooked up a pasta bolognaise. The feeling of paranoia had still not completely gone, and we were expecting a tap on the shoulder at any minute; “Sorry sonny, you can’t camp here!”. The fear was ill-founded and the only people we saw were a few dog walkers, who were very interested to know what we were doing...and a tad jealous.

 As we lay back on the sand eating chocolate the stars started to appear. This is the adventure I had been after and I wanted more.

Dartmoor - One of the few places where wild camping is allowed


 Since that trip in 2016 I/we have been out on at least 30-40 similar nights and I have made a new group of great friends through the Norfolk Microadventurers site. We have arranged trips to the Peak District, Brecon Beacons, Dartmoor and a long weekend in Scotland. We have camped on beaches, in woodlands, ruined castles and at the top of a viewing platform. I have purchased 3 new tents, a sleeping quilt (rated -10 degs), and a down filled sleeping mat. All were bought to extend the camping season from summer into autumn and now winter camping.

How to start
 There are so many Facebook sites now dedicated to wild camping and microadventures that information is easy to come by. You can spend months researching the best equipment (and I did), the perfect 4 season tent, the most comfortable (and expensive) sleeping mat or the perfect location. The research will no doubt give you lots of information and a large dent in your bank balance. You could, also, just look through the camping equipment you have, throw some clothes into a bag and head to the beach.

 At the end of the day it’s only camping!




Thursday, 14 March 2019

What's to come? Our plans for 2019 and beyond

 Is it March already?  We normally have most of the year mapped out by now but this year we have been pretty lapse. What have we got booked and what would we like to book for this year and beyond? I figured I'd get my shit together and share my thoughts.  

March
 This month sees a big birthday in the Four Roam camp, with C soon to be 11 it's time to celebrate. We are taking him and his friends out for dinner on his birthday and then off to a climbing wall. Having just watched Free Solo we are "all" keen to give it ago (some more keen than others).

April
 The month starts with 2 birthdays so there will, no doubt, be a small celebration to arrange. Hoping for some family time away in the van this April and looking at a trip to Wales and the beautiful walk at Ystradfelte. It is described as the best Waterfall walk in Britain and takes in 4 waterfalls; one you can walk behind. We will more than likely stay in a campsite as wild camping is a bit tricky with the four of us and no amenities.


California, It's on the list.

May
 The warmer weather will no doubt bring more weekend campervan trips. With the Norfolk and Suffolk coast being so close by we are keen to explore some of the lesser known areas. Places like Aldeburgh and Dunwich that we live so close to but have, as yet, not visited. Camp Quirky is also on the list for a potential weekends away, this festival is based around self-converted campervans and there are various talks and demonstrations over the weekend. 

 Towards the end of May we have a week-long trip to Romania booked. We are excited to be visiting Transylvania and Bran castle. We also plan on spending some time at the Libearty Bear Sanctuary, the sanctuary takes in bears that were previously used for tourism.  We have yet to work out the accommodation details and are undecided whether to stick to one area or arrange a road trip. Watch this space!



Bran Castle in Romania

June
 As soon as we get back from Romania, we have the Alive and Vdubbin VW show in Stowmarket, Suffolk. After being invited last year, and turning up in a Kia Sorento, we are glad be taking along our VW this year. The show is on for 2 nights and has a children's area as well as VW related displays and evening entertainment. 

July
 Nothing is planned for July, but I want to fit in some more wild tent camps, and I'd like to get to Scotland again. I'd love to do the NC500 but for that I'd need at least 2 weeks and we just can't spare the holiday. I have been looking at the transport options; the sleeper train is over £200 so I may end up flying to Inverness and hiring a car for a weekend. 



My last wild camping trip to Scotland

August
 We have a 10-day road trip pencilled in for August. The plan is head over to France and follow the coast west to Brittany taking in the sites on the way. This will be our longest van trip, to date and something we are all excited about. 

September
 Another big birthday with Emily hitting CENSORED and another VW show to consider; Retro Dub Suffolk. Hoping to get some friends together for a weekend of fun. 

October and beyond.
 Nothing booked beyond September yet, but we are meant to be saving for a much larger trip in 2020. With school holidays so frequent, and both of us working, we only ever manage to take one week off at a time. This limits us to short haul flights. Next year we have a plan. We are looking at taking at least 3 weeks off work and going on a California road trip. We have seen so many posts featuring places such as Joshua Tree, Yosemite National Park, and of course the Grand Canyon we just need to see it for ourselves.

That's a few things jotted down, let's see what the rest of the year brings.   



Thursday, 7 March 2019

Iceland - Our 6 day road trip

Iceland: The land of fire and ice they say
Iceland: The land of waterfalls and sunshine we say 

  If anyone had mentioned a trip to Iceland a few years ago I would have asked them to pick me up some frozen peas and a Walls' Viennetta. We knew nothing of the amazing European country that sits 850 miles north of the UK. We didn't know about the beautiful waterfalls, the wonderous rock formations, the friendly people or the constantly moving glaciers.

M paddling to retrieve the ice at the diamond beach Jokulsarlon

 It was November 2017 that we first considered Iceland as a holiday destination. We were looking for something that was a little different (there's a theme here). We had been holidaying in the UK for years but now that our labrador, Millie, was getting too old to come along we had a new sense of freedom and adventure. We wanted the children to experience something new and exciting, Iceland ticks all those boxes and more.

 Flights to Iceland are readily available and we managed to fly via EasyJet, from Luton, for a very affordable price. We had heard from friends that Iceland is not the cheapest destination, but it is possible to travel within a reasonable budget if you just take care:

Top tips:
- Food shopping can be expensive but by using Bonus supermarkets and picking basic ingredients we didn't spend much more than at home.

- Accommodation costs can be reduced by using Airbnb or by hiring a campervan, this is then your transport, accommodation and kitchen/diner. 

- Outside of Reykjavik most of the attractions are either free or reasonably priced, choose your days out carefully and avoid some of the tourist hotspots such as the Blue Lagoon. 

- Fuel stations in Iceland have a good range of basic food at reasonable prices, we bought porridge pots, hotdogs and ice creams whenever we were passing.

- Alcohol is very expensive in Iceland, we picked up two bottles of wine in duty free and still paid around £12 a bottle.

Shop at Bonus to reduce food costs

 As we were in Iceland for only 6 days we decided to stick to the south coast and see as much as we could without driving too far each day. The below route was perfect for a week’s family travel. 

The Route:
- Day 1. Reykjavik
 Hallgrimskirkja Church, Freddi Arcade and Toy Museum, The Sun Voyager Monument and the Perlan museum.
Highlights. We loved Perlan with its ice cave and glacier exhibitions, the view from the top of the observation deck was pretty cool but watch out for the price of cake in the café. We stopped at the petrol station on the way for hotdogs.

The Perlan Museum
  
Day 2. Waterfalls
 Picked up the van, food shopping at Bonus, Seljalandsfoss, Gljufrabui and Skogafoss Waterfalls.
Highlights. A few hundred yards to the left of the main waterfall Seljalandfoss is Gljufrabui, a hidden waterfall in a crevice. If you don't mind wet feet you can paddle to the base. 

Gljufrabui the hidden waterfall

Day 3. Glaciers
Kirkjugolf, Fjallsárlón, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Skaftafell
Highlights. Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was amazing and should not be missed. We saw icebergs floating by and the children even had a paddle in the water to retrieve the ice. 

The amphibious vehicle at Jokulsarlon


Day 4. Back To Vik
Skaftafell Glacier, Laufskálavarða lava ridge and the Voyage monument.
Highlights. Another great Glacier at Skaftafell and a lovely walk from the campsite. (unfortunately we missed the waterfall)

Day 5. To Geysir
Icelandic Horses, Slakki Petting Zoo and the Secret Lagoon.
Highlights. The children loved the petting zoo and the Secret Lagoon is a must. 



The Secret Lagoon hot springs

Day 6. The Golden Circle
Geysir, Gulfoss, Laugarvatn Fontana, Thingvellir and then home.
Highlights. The Stokkhur Geysir spouts 30m jets of water every few minutes and the campsite at Geysir is great.



Gulfoss Waterfall

 We were so lucky to have great weather whilst we were away. The 22hrs of daylight and the warm days made the campervan a great choice, we had the freedom to see some great places and stop for lunch wherever we liked. The campsites were reasonable, and fuel wasn't too bad. Had the weather been as we expected we would have really struggled with a lack of space and may have had to eat out a lot more. The VW T6 van we hired had no kitchen, all cooking was done outdoors and with no tent, storage was a bit of a problem.

 We did actually see one Iceland supermarket whilst we were in Iceland. We never did get that Walls' Viennetta though. 




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